tips

HMVS Cerberus detailing tips.

This page pulls together a number of tips and detailing options that will help to complete your model of the Cerberus. Some of these suggestions may require additional parts or more advanced skills.

Railings - option 1

There are photo-etched metal railings available from a number of suppliers suitable for use with the Cerberus. Cut the railings to length, paint an appropriate colour (white for the breastwork and flying decks, black for the main deck) and glue into place.

Railings - option 2

Detailed railings can be made using lengths of wire for the stanchions (supports) and lengths of thread. Make a hole in the deck for each stanchion (all positions are marked), cut a length of wire (using the supplied paper rails as a template) and glue into the hole in the deck using instant glue (also known as superglue, CA or cyanoacrylate). Use white glue to fix thread between the stanchions and paint an appropriate colour.

Note that holes for the railings should be made in the flying deck before it is glued in place.

Railings - option 3

Similar to option 2 but paper strips are used for stanchions folded over threads and glued into place. Use the supplied paper railings as a template.

Railings - option 4

Realistic railings can be made from stiffened thread. The basic method is to wrap thread round an open frame to form a criss-cross grid, soak the threads in glue and allow to set, then cut out and fix into place. Full details and a template for the rails on the Cerberus are given below.

Railing template

Instructions for use

Awnings

Mounting points for the flying deck awning supports are provided around the edge and down the centre of the flying deck. The supplied awning supports (part 91) can be fitted or replaced with wire or thin plastic rod. They should be rigged with fine thread, nylon monofilament or stretched plastic sprue as shown in Figure J. Awnings may be made from very thin ivory or cream coloured paper or white paper coloured with watercolour paint.

Anchor chains

Anchor chains may be replaced with photo-etched metal parts (available in good hobby shops) or length of fine jewellery chain. Chemical blackeners are available from hardware shops and are more appropriate than paints.

Steering ropes

The steering ropes may be modelled using thread (black or brown). Open the holes in the flying deck below the wheel (before gluing the deck in place) and the corresponding holes in the breastwork deck beneath. Wrap several turns of thread around the wheel axle pass through the holes in the flying deck and glue into the holes in the breastwork deck. Stiffening the ends with thread will assist threading through small holes.

Rotating turrets

The turrets may be made to rotate as follows. Glue a short length of rod (wood or plastic) into the breastwork deck at the centre of each turret location. Cut out an appropriate-sized hole in the turret base and trim former b to allow clearance for the rod. Note this will require cutting a clearance hole in the hull spine before assembly.

Gun barrels

The supplied paper gun barrels can be replaced with lengths of plastic or metal tubing.

Windows

The windows of the chart house can be carefully cut out and replaced with a clear glazing material. The insides can be scratch-built.

The deck skylights may be replaced with small pieces of clear glazing material. Colour the top of the bases (part a) black.

Pump handles

The three deck-mounted pumps (part 55) have long crankshaft-like handles fitted to allow teams of men to operate the pumps. Templates for the handles and mounting posts are given in diagram K. Make the pump handles in sections from wire, stiffened thread or plastic rod. Make posts from plastic or spare card - fix in place on the deck as shown in Figure K. Attach the pump handles. In the 2 section pump handles the handle sections are offset by 180 degrees. In the 3 section pump handles the handle sections are offset by 120 degrees.

Rigging

Fine thread, nylon monofilament or stretched sprue can be use for rigging. Fine nylon monofilament is available from fishing tackle suppliers. It can be coloured black with a permanent marker by unreeling a length, placing the tip of the marker on the thread (on a scrap piece of paper) near the reel, then pulling the thread through the tip of the marker. If the monofilament does not lie straight, place a length in boiling water briefly then hang up with a weight tied to the end. Cut to length and glue in place with instant glue (also known as superglue, CA or cyanoacrylate).

Lifeboat and anchor tackle

Replace the supplied paper tackle with thread. Retain the blocks and sandwich a number of lengths of thread or monofilament between the halves of the paper blocks. The lifeboat davits and coaling derricks may be replaced with plastic rod or soft wire bent to shape.

Flags

Cut out and fold double, glue and press together. Before the glue dries shape the flag into folds to simulate the waves and folds in a real flag. The glue will dry and set the shape. The flags can be glued to the flagpoles or halliards can be used, made of thin thread or monofilament.

Modelling board

A piece of clear hard plastic glazing material makes a good modelling base. I use a piece of 3mm thick acrylic plastic (acrylate) glued to corrugated cardboard. White glue (PVA) does not bond to it and when the model is finished, gently flexing the base detaches the model. Test this first on your material.

Display base

A display base can be made from an appropriate piece of wood. Sand and varnish the sides. Cover the top with a suitable piece of green-blue paper, glue the model of the Cerberus in place and coat the paper with artists gel medium. Build up several layers and try and replicate some waves. White paint sparingly applied can pick out the wake. Practice without gluing the model in place first!

The hulk

The really ambitious can attempt to model the current state of the Cerberus using the model parts as a starting point!

David Hathaway

November 2000