MkIV MALE & FEMALE TANKS

INSTRUCTIONS

Assembly of this kit requires a moderate knowkedge of cardmodeling and the necessary tools.  There are a number of good references to aid the modeller in general appearance and location of components.


GENERAL NOTES:

1.	This model was designed for 0.008" thick cardstock.  This expands to 0.011" thick when laminated.

2.	Tabs on small parts may be removed when the parts are cut out.  Butt-joint the connections.

3.	Crease (do NOT cut) all fold lines before cutting out a part.

4.	Take care if coloring the exposed edges.  Paints and markers may bleed over onto the  outside surface of the card.

5.	Refer to Cardmodel FAQ on the 'net for lots of good tips: "www://cardfaq.org/"

6.	Tools include: a very sharp craft knife, flat working surface, glue, straightedge, dowels/tubing/rod for forming cylinders.  A self-healing cutting board and small, very sharp scissors are recommended.  

7.	This 1/76 scale card kit consist of three parts cards, two illustrated instruction sheets and this text file.  

8.	The parts images are 9 inches wide x 7 inches tall, at 300 pixels per inch (2700 x 2100 pixels), and 24-bit (16 million) color.  The dimensions were selected to permit enlarging the parts images to 1/72 scale on either US letter size card or European A4 card.  The parts cards are distributed as JPG files, with compression factors between 10 and 15 in order to get file sizes down to around 500KB.    The instructions sheets are greyscale JPG files at no particular scale.  The JPG images have a lot of static and blurring due to the compression.  The uncompressed BMP files are much sharper, but are 16+MB each.


LAMINATING NOTES:

1.	Laminating is used for two purposes: either to strengthen an otherwise flimsy part, or to build up a part that would not be practical otherwise.

2.	I use white glue, diluted at approximately 3 parts glue to 1 part water.  The more water, the more potential for warping.
	
3.	I apply the diluted glue with a child's plastic-bristle paint brush.  It is sufficiently stiff and cleans up easily with water.  If it hardens, soak it in water and soap, then wash it out.

4.	Place laminated pieces between heavy, stiff, smooth objects so they dry flat.  I use large books.  Encylopedias would work just fine - good use for them, too.  I refer to these as the "press".

5.	Some pieces are trimmed to shape before laminating.  Most are only rough-trimmed before laminating, then trimmed after drying.

6.	Some laminated parts include a "core" and a "cover".  The core gives shape to the cover and is made first.  The core sometimes is marked to show where the cover fits.  The cover is sometimes delicate when cut out, so handle with care.  Generally, make all creases before making any cuts.  Leave excess card around the part until trimming is required.  Some laminated parts are quite delicate until attached to the model.


ASSEMBLY NOTES:

1.	Cut out the track frames - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, & 6.  Cut openings in 2, 3, 5, & 6 in front horns.

2.	Laminate 2 & 3 to 1.  Laminate 5 & 6 to 4.  Take care to align the openings and the edges.  Set aside in the press to dry.

3.	Laminate the unditching beam rail cores (40), (44) to an oversized piece of scrap card.  Set aside in the press to dry.

4.	Laminate the exhaust pipe core (15), to an oversized piece of scrap card.  Set aside in the press to dry.
	
5.	Crease and fold the tracks (7), (8).  Note that there are four longitudinal creases, in pairs close together, on each track piece.  The two creases close together make it easier to fold the track double without getting tears in the bent edges.  When folded double, the outer edges should meet in the center of the track.  Neatness where they meet is not essential as this will be on the hidden surface when the tracks are put on.  I fold one side of a track piece at a time, spreading diluted glue with a brush, then pressing down with fingers.  Set aside to dry.  I do not use the press here, since we will be creasing and folding them later, anyway.

6.	Fold up the sides of the hull (9).  Fold the hull top, front and rear where creased.  Wrap the top/front/rear around the hull sides and glue in place, in short sections - I do not try to do it all at once.  The end of the rear plate should exactly match the tabbed joint at the rear of the hull floor.  Take care with the joints as the side surface will be used later to connect the hull to the track units.  

7.	Assemble the gas tank (12) and attach to the rear of the hull.  Locate the bottom of the tank just above the row of bolts on the rear hull plate.

8.	Crease and cut out the spacers for the track frames (48), (49), (50), two of each.  Attach one (48) near the bottom of one side of the the track frame (1), one (49) along the top rear, and one (50) near the lower front.  The exact location isn't critical.  Let the parts dry, then put glue on the free edges of the spacers, stand the track frame up vertically, and  press the other side against the spacers.  Lay the unit flat and put a light weight on it ot hold it while it dries.  

9.	Attach the tracks (7), (8) to the side frames (1), (2).  This can be tricky and will determine how the whole vehicle will look when complete.  Note the shading on the tracks and orient both sides the same way.  I suggest glueing the track in short sections, ending with a butt-joint on the bottom run.  Crease on the inside as necessary to facilitate bends, particularly at the sharply-rounded ends.  The tracks are overlength; I trim the last length with scissors to get a clean butt-joint.  The tracks should overhang the sides of the frames by 0.5mm or so.

10.	Assemble the sponsons.  I suggest removing the tabs for a cleaner fit-up.  Note that there are left sponsons and right sponsons.  I put the completed sponson shells in a modified "press", a large bottle of paint on a flat surface, to keep them square and flat on the back side.

	A.	MALE SPONSONS:  Cut the dark tabs inside the embrasures in (20) and (27) and fold them inward before cutting the parts out.  Fold the parts to shape.  Attach the top to the rear and end plates; the top fits over the end plates.  When the top is secure, attach the sides/bottom plates to the end plates; take great care with the fit-up - this will determine whether the sponsons will sit flat on the hull.  Crease and fold (22), (28); curve (23), (29).  Attach (23) to (22), (29) to (28).  On the right sponson only, there is a reinforcing piece (21); crease and fold the tabs, then attach it in the embrasure opening in (20).  When the outer plates (20), (27) are secure, insert the mantlet assemblies (22/23), (28/29) from the back side.  Align the mantlets then apply glue where they touch the sponsons.

	B.	FEMALE SPONSONS:  Similar to the male sponsons, but much less complicated.  Take great care when rolling the gun mounts as they must fit inside the completed sponson; too large and the sponson will not fit flat aginst the hull.

11.	Attach sponsons to the side frames.  This may need a modified "press" to ensure a close fit.  Roll, glue and attach the guns when dry.  Lewis and Hotchkiss guns are provided, with extras in case some do not come out right.

12.	Cut out, assemble and attach the driver's cab (10), muffler supports (3 x 17), muffler (16) and rail supports (46/47) and (42/43).

13.	Double the storage box (13), glue and press.  When dry, crease fold and butt-joint the ends.  The notches go on the inside of the box.  Do not attach the box to the hull just yet (see step 16).

14.	Trim the top edge (only, at this time) of the exhaust pipe core (15).  Crease and rough cut the outer covering (14), then attach it to the core, taking care to keep the center of the cover aligned on the top of the core.  The mitered joints should line up.  Set aside in a press to dry before cutting the bottom edge.

15.	Trim the top edge (only, at this time) of the unditching beam rails cores (40), (44).  Crease and rough cut the outer coverings (41), (45), then attach them to the cores, taking care to keep the centers of the covers aligned on the tops of the cores.  The mitered joints should line up.  Set aside in a press to dry before cutting the bottom edge.

16.	When the Exhaust pipe is dry, trim the bottom edge.  Bend the forward part of the pipe to meet the muffler; trim the end of the pipe as required.  Using the slots in the storage box as a guide, attach the exhaust pipe to the hull.  Now attach the storage box over the exhaust pipe.  Fold and attach the exhaust cover (18) over the exhaust pipe inside the storage box.

17.	When the unditching rails are dry, trim the bottom edges.  Bend the end tabs double and bend them outward.  Attach the rails to the rail supports (42/43), (46/47) and the end brackets to the side frames.  The front attachment point is just above the Idler tensioning assembly.  The rear attachment point is just above the circular plate.  I usually also glue the rails to top corner of the cab, since they so close anyway. 

18.	Crease, cut out, fold and glue the unditching beam (19).  Note that it is not rectangular in cross-section.  Attach the beam to the rails near the storage box.  For the model, this has the ironic effect of stiffening the rails.

19.  There are a number of small pieces which may be cut out and glued in place to enhance the 3D effects.  They duplicate what is already on the model and may be omitted in the interest of simplicity.

C. W. McCullough
Houston, TX USA
June 2001